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A Woman’s Guide to Buying a Good, Cheap Used Car (Despite the Sexist Salesmen)

Having been married to a car dealer for many years and working a lot in the auto industry myself, I can give you some tips that you will find very useful if you are looking to buy a low cost used car that should give you decent value for money.

Don’t choose flashy models

A flashy car with a cool image has likely been beaten down by boy racers and other pond creatures.Pick a make and model that may not be cool and boring, but will likely be well driven and maintained.

how many milescome up with a number and triple it

Quite frankly, looking at the miles on the clock is a complete waste of time. Even though it’s illegal, there can’t be a used car dealer in the world who hasn’t given the car a “haircut”: an industry term meaning the mileage reading has been wound backwards. You’re more likely to judge a car’s age by evaluating a number of factors. (as follows)

Mileage: High isn’t necessarily the end of the world

If the car you’re looking for is a company car, driven by a salesperson, say, it’s likely that most of its mileage is accrued on the autobahn (highway), and it’ll get serviced quite often. Within reason, such a car is probably better than a car with very low mileage that is driven weekly to the mall at high revs in low gear and serviced only when the engine is smoking blue.

internal situation

Although the interior may have been “spivved”, which is British slang for being cleaned well, you can still see signs of wear and tear in the dashboard, center console, steering wheel and the feel and appearance of the seats Wet pancakes Tells you more about the age of the car than the exterior that could be repainted (see below).

Internal Condition – Footboards

With the general look of the interior in mind, check the footboards. If they are as worn out as the interior, that’s fine, but if they look new, that means they’ve been replaced. Pedals, interior condition, and mileage should all agree with each other — if they don’t, take note.

Body – full paint job

Use common sense as your guide. Too bright and new, it’s likely been repainted, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing if done right. Open the door to see if the panel ends are the same color, and check inside the hood (hood) for any differences. You may also see evidence when you look inside the engine (motor) compartment.

Bodywork – a paint job here or there

Especially if the car is red or metallic, it is often easy to see if a certain part of the bodywork (such as the fenders) has been repainted, indicating some repaired accident damage, as the colors will hardly match exactly. The slightly different odd panel shouldn’t be a concern, as one panel indicates a minor bump if it gets hit. However, there’s more than one fascia, and you should think twice: the trunk (trunk)/hatch and both rears imply a strong rear end hit, while the hood (hood) plus two fronts, front Panels etc imply the front end. See engine (motor) below. Another reason for partial repainting is that the associated panels are heavily rusted – avoid. Rust is back soon.

Body – filler

If the paint job looks slightly cellulite, the damage and/or rust may have been “clogged” (slapped with something a bit like the product you used before painting the walls) and repainted. This means that, because the underlying metal has been damaged, moisture can seep into the crack and corrode the panel beneath the filler. There are two ways to check for filling: 1) Tap the panel with your knuckle or blunt jewelry. Filled areas will sound different. 2) Carry a small magnet with you to watch the car. It will stick to the metal, but not the filler.

Bodywork – gaps, creases and wobbly pieces

This is where you can really freak out the salesman, because unless he has a fairly in-depth knowledge of post-accident damage repair, he won’t know what the hell you’re doing. So smile. Walk slowly around the car. Stand at one end and look forward along the roof. Can you see any dents or slight creases? If it can, it could mean the car has been involved in a severe crash and structural integrity may have been compromised. Check the sides of the car for any wavy or wobbly parts that could be caused by the same cause. Then, look at the gaps between panels – such as either side of the hood (hood). Are they equal in width? If not, the hood (hood) has been removed. Why? Is it for painting, or because of an accident? Also check the trunk (trunk) or clearance on either side of the tailgate. If they’re not equal, the fix isn’t very good. Beware of driver and front passenger door hinges that appear to sag, especially in 2 or 3 door vehicles. They will eventually fall out and it can be expensive to fix them.

drive behind it if you can

It sounds silly, but if you can convince the salesman to drive it down the road, you’ll be following behind in your own car. Make sure you or your passengers can clearly see the used car. If it looks like it’s leaning or crabbing, don’t touch it – its chassis could twist after a hard crash, which could even be dangerous, not to mention wear out the tires at the speed of light. Also, when you drive behind the car, you can see if it is burning oil (blue smoke, indicating worn engine/motor) or overheating (white steam), indicating more mechanical issues.

engine (motor) compartment

Common sense is key here, and even if you’re not a trained technician, you can tell that an engine (motor) compartment (compartment) covered in dirty oil and mud has likely been around the block a few times. Get some soft paper, pull out the dipstick, and check the oil level. If it’s very low and/or dirty, it’s a sign of neglect. An engine (motor) running on low and/or dirty oil will not last very long. When you’re under the hood (hood), check along the sides and back of the area for any signs of warping or new welds – basically, if one part looks different than the others, watch out.

Get a “mechanic” to check it out – is it worth it?

it depends. If you’re only paying relatively little for a used car one of these almighty checks from this or that auto association is going to cost you a lot and just really point out all you’ll get from a car of that era anyway Got some little problems. If you want to buy the car, and you’re in the UK, it’s worth mentioning that you’ll be making it a condition that it passes the UK’s MoT test, even if it still has time for the last test. This will fix any errors in its emissions, which can be expensive to fix, and will check for brakes and other safety issues.

Check it is not financing or lease

If the car appears to have only one set of keys, and (in the UK) the logbook/V5 and other documents have been ‘lost’, it may be because it is under financing or an outstanding lease. If you buy a car in this condition, you may find yourself losing the car with nothing in return from the dealership. While it may not be worth paying to have your car’s mechanics checked, if you have any concerns about your keys and papers, check with a company like HPI in the UK before touching it, which charges around £20 (approx. $32.00) ), there’s even a free service available. Find the best one for you by googling “how to check if a car is in financing”.

Good luck and happy driving!

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